Clematis - Species & Hybrids

Clematis come in all sizes, vigour, texture, colour etc., in fact so bewildering is the choice that the gardener is hard pressed to make a decision. One of the advantages of growing Clematis is the ease with which they clamber through shrubs and trees. The Clematis belongs to the family Ranunculaceae (buttercup family) and have been grown in English Gardens since at least the end of the sixteenth century.

Cultivation

Clematis are gross feeders - in other words, they like feeding and lots of it! As to soil type, well most soils that are well supplied with humus and adequate moisture, lime in the soil is not a prerequisite at all, so there is no need to go scrouging around for mortar rubble. When choosing your new clematis, look for plants with several stems, these are the best plants for the garden. I find autumn planting works best, but if planting in spring or summer, make sure you water any newly planted specimens regularly in dry spells. It is also wise with new plantings to plant them slightly deeper below soil level up to 5cm, to guard against wilt (see below).

Pruning

The subject of pruning Clematis seems to be steeped in mystery when in fact it is quite straightforward really. The important to remember is that most Clematis either flower on previous season's ripened stems, or on stems produced during the current flowering season. When the Clematis flowers is the all important point and it helps to know the actual name of the plant here! All new young plants are best pruned hard (particularly if the plant in question has only one or two main stems) down to 30cm, this will encourage further stems to develop. For convenience, the month of February is the time I choose, Clematis are divided into three main pruning groups:-

Group 1

The plants in this group are the evergreen species and their cultivated forms, the alpinas and macropetalas and the montanas. They all produce their flowers from stems ripened during the previous growing season and any pruning is carried out after flowering. This consists of removing all dead and weak stems when the plant has finished flowering. Already established plants in this group are not normally pruned at all, except for space allowed.

Group 2

Clematis in this group produce their flowers on the old/previous season's stems and comprise the Early, Large-flowered cultivars, the double and semi-double, and mid-season, Large-flowered cultivars. As spring advances, you will notice with this type of Clematis that leaf axil buds will be becoming fat and really pointing out to the gardener where to prune. All that is required is the removal of dead and weak stems and all remaining stems should be tied in immediately. If the Clematis is growing into another shrub, it is important not to tie in too tightly or the brittle stems will be broken by the actions of the wind.

Group 3

This final group is the easiest. All the plant included here the jackmanni types, the Late-flowering, Large-flowering cultivars, the viticella group and the texensis group. These plants produce all their flowers on growth produced each year. All top growth at the start of each new season has died away and is now useless, and requires pruning away entirely (during very mild winters they may be signs of growth, but ignore that fact). Therefore, all previous season's growth is removed, allowing room for the new growth to develop and this helps also to "clean out" the plant of any fungal infections, giving the plant a fresh start each season. Growth is removed down to around 75cm above soil level to allow room for the current season's growth. Don't forget to tie in all growth that develops, spreading out the shoots over the area to be covered.

Clematis Wilt

The only major problem is 'Clematis Wilt'. Previously healthy plants will suddenly collapse, or perhaps part of a plant. The affected plant looks as if it has suffered a severe water shortage. Wilt is caused by a fungus and is thought to attack the plant near soil level or at least within one metre. If any plant is affected, all affected stems and foliage must be removed and burnt. The plant and soil area is best treated with benlate, captan or any sulphar-based fungicide and treated every four weeks until the plant has recovered and produced new growth.

Clematis in Containers

We often get asked is it possible to grow clematis in containers, well, the answer is course of yes! The container chosen should be not less than around 45cm in depth and with a diameter of 30-40cm, larger if possible. John Innes Compost No.3 is best for permanent plantings, with a top dressing of gravel on the top of 6cm in depth. Also, the container should ideally be lifted off the ground to assist in drainage, sat on bricks for example. If free-standing, a support of canes in a 'wigwam' arrangement will be suitable. The best plants to choose for pots should of course be the less vigorous types. Avoid the montanas and species types, they are far too vigorous for pot culture. Probably the ideal plants are to be found amongst the viticellas hybrids.

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